Going to A.F. Vandevorst was my top priority for Paris affairs. An & Filip have mastered understated sensuality and casual fetishism with clothing for the past 12 years. I came to truly understand the breadth of their influence while working on a story for LURVE Magazine (now out!) featuring pieces from both their SS10 collection as well as clothing from their past archives.
The FW10 collection is a natural progression from their past two seasons, beginning with uniforms of monochromatic camel tones, slightly militaristic slightly skinlike. The more structured fabrics were accented by rivets, giving them the appearance of armor. The sleeves on pullovers continued down to the fingers with attached gloves. One black sweater in particular featured a knitted back panel resembling a harness. The colors progressed from burnt burgundy to mixed reds, with one silk shirt in fuchsia. The black pieces in the show featured the season's object theme: Chalk. Silk dresses with chalk drawings as a pattern, jackets that appeared to be pinstriped, but upon closer inspection were simply trompe l'oeil with chalk lines. The delicate touch of the hand in A.F. Vandevorst's work and integration of the taboo into the tailored is what makes me love what they do, and this season is no different.
The FW10 collection is a natural progression from their past two seasons, beginning with uniforms of monochromatic camel tones, slightly militaristic slightly skinlike. The more structured fabrics were accented by rivets, giving them the appearance of armor. The sleeves on pullovers continued down to the fingers with attached gloves. One black sweater in particular featured a knitted back panel resembling a harness. The colors progressed from burnt burgundy to mixed reds, with one silk shirt in fuchsia. The black pieces in the show featured the season's object theme: Chalk. Silk dresses with chalk drawings as a pattern, jackets that appeared to be pinstriped, but upon closer inspection were simply trompe l'oeil with chalk lines. The delicate touch of the hand in A.F. Vandevorst's work and integration of the taboo into the tailored is what makes me love what they do, and this season is no different.
Preview of the A.F. Vandevorst story for LURVE Magazine, photographed by myself, styled by Cameron Cooper. More soon!
